Winter Gatherings Read online

  6. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Place a pizza stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450°F.

  7. Punch the dough down and transfer to a floured work surface. Roll, pat, and stretch the dough into a 12-to 14-inch round. Sprinkle a pizza paddle liberally with cornmeal. Transfer the dough round to the paddle and reshape as needed. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand for 10 minutes.

  8. Sprinkle the dough with the Parmesan and ½ cup of the Fontina. Arrange the potato slices, oiled side up, on the dough, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge. Sprinkle with the roasted red pepper. Drop heaping ¼ teaspoons of tapenade over the pizza. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup Fontina. Lightly brush the exposed dough border with garlic oil.

  9. Slide the pizza off the paddle onto the hot pizza stone. Bake until the underside is deep golden brown (using the paddle to lift the pizza and check), 15 to 20 minutes. Slip the paddle under the pizza and transfer to a cutting board. Spoon the remaining chopped garlic and its oil over the pizza to taste. Sprinkle with salt, rosemary, and red pepper flakes to taste. Cut into wedges and serve hot.

  Note

  Tapenade, a savory spread made from olives, anchovies, garlic, and herbs, is available at specialty grocers and many supermarkets. Olivada, an olive spread that does not usually include anchovies, is a good substitute. Or simply scatter ½ cup pitted and coarsely chopped black Mediterranean olives over the pizza.

  Baked Brie with Wild Mushrooms and Thyme

  Makes 6 servings

  Here is a nigh-perfect appetizer to serve with red wine on a cool evening—earthy mushrooms served over melting Brie to spread on crusty bread. You’ll need a medium-size edible-rind cheese, such as Brie de Colummiers or imported or domestic Camembert, that is sold in a wooden box, as the box will contain the cheese while it heats in the oven. For a large crowd, use a large wheel of cheese and triple the topping.

  * * *

  MUSHROOM TOPPING

  ½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms

  2/3 cup hearty red wine, such as a Cabernet/Shiraz blend

  2 tablespoons unsalted butter

  6 ounces cremini mushrooms, halved or quartered

  6 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps sliced

  2 tablespoons minced shallots

  2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  One (14-ounce) ripe Brie in a wooden box, such as Brie de Colummiers (about 5 inches in diameter)

  1 baguette, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

  * * *

  1. For the mushrooms, rinse the porcini in a wire sieve under cold water to remove any dirt. Bring the wine to a simmer in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat, add the porcini, and let stand until the mushrooms soften, about 20 minutes. Lift the mushrooms from the wine and coarsely chop them. Strain the wine through a wire sieve lined with moistened paper towels into a small bowl. Reserve the wine.

  2. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cremini and shiitake mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the shallots and stir until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in the soaked porcini and the strained wine. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The mushrooms can be made up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

  3. Remove the Brie from the box, reserving the bottom half of the box. Using a sharp knife, cut off and discard the top rind from the cheese. Return the cheese to the bottom half of the box, cut side up. Mound the mushrooms on top of the cheese. Place the box with the cheese and mushrooms on a baking sheet. (The cheese can be prepared and refrigerated up to 8 hours before baking.)

  4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Bake until the cheese begins to melt, about 15 minutes. Transfer the cheese in its box to a serving platter. Serve hot, with baguette slices, allowing guests to scoop and spread the cheese and mushrooms onto the bread.

  Gruyère and Cider Fondue

  Makes 4 to 6 servings

  Many people serve fondue as a meal, but it is also a lovely appetizer to serve with a light-bodied red wine. Just the sight of a fondue pot over a low flame is bound to warm the insides even before a single bread cube is speared. One thing to remember: a fondue pot is meant to serve, but not actually cook, the fondue, which is best made on the stove.

  * * *

  1 cup hard apple or pear cider

  1 tablespoon cider vinegar

  4 cups (1 pound) shredded Gruyère

  1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

  1 tablespoon Calvados, applejack, or Poire William

  Freshly ground black pepper

  Cubes of crusty bread, cored and sliced Granny Smith apples or Bosc pears, and sliced grilled kielbasa, for serving

  * * *

  1. Combine the cider and vinegar in a nonreactive medium saucepan. Stirring to dissipate the bubbles, bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low; the liquid should barely simmer.

  2. Toss the Gruyère with the cornstarch in a large bowl to coat the cheese. A handful at a time, whisk the cheese into the simmering cider mixture, whisking until the first batch is melted before adding more. When all the cheese has been added, return the heat to medium and heat just until the fondue bubbles a few times; do not overcook. Remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Season with pepper.

  3. Transfer to a fondue pot set on its trivet over the flame. Arrange the bread, apples, and sausage for dipping on a platter. Serve the fondue hot with fondue forks and the platter of dipping ingredients.

  Chai Eggnog

  Makes 4 to 6 servings

  I consider it a crime to go through December without at least one glass of eggnog. As it is a staple of the holiday party menu, most recipes are for a crowd, but this makes just enough for a few friends—you can always multiply the ingredients for a larger batch. This recipe came to me when I was sipping a hot glass of aromatic chai, and noted that the combination of spices reminded me of gingerbread, so they would translate beautifully into that winter specialty, eggnog. It doesn’t have any liquor in it, but some dark rum wouldn’t be amiss.

  * * *

  2 cups heavy cream

  Three 3-inch cinnamon sticks

  1 teaspoon black peppercorns

  9 green cardamom pods, crushed

  9 quarter-sized slices fresh ginger

  1 teaspoon whole cloves

  4 orange pekoe or Darjeeling tea bags

  3 large eggs, separated

  2/3 cup sugar

  * * *

  1. Combine the cream, cinnamon, peppercorns, cardamom, ginger, and cloves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the tea bags. Let stand for 5 minutes. Strain through a wire sieve into a heatproof bowl, pressing hard on the tea bags. Let cool completely.

  2. Beat the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is thickened and pale yellow. On low speed, beat in the cream mixture.

  3. Using clean beaters, beat the egg whites in a greaseproof medium bowl with the mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 and up to 12 hours. Serve chilled.

  * * *

  A Festive Christmas Dinner

  Gruyère and Rosemary Gougères (Chapter 1)

  Chai Eggnog (opposite)

  Mussel and Fennel Bisque (Chapter 2

  Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust (Chapter 3)

  Potato and Garlic Gratin (Chapter 5)

  Fresh green beans sautéed with shallots

  Pear Soufflés “Hélène” (Chapter 6)

  * * *

  Orange-Spice Hot Chocolate with Homemade Marshmallows

  Makes 4 servings

  This is a very grown-up version of tha
t childhood favorite, hot chocolate topped with marshmallows. Most hot chocolate drinks are actually made with cocoa. I prefer this method, which allows me to enjoy the flavor of my favorite eating chocolate. For my taste, I like a semisweet chocolate with about 55% cacao solids (you’ll find this listed on the label of the best brands), but you may vote for a more bitter variety. And if you are a purist, leave out the orange zest and cinnamon, but I think that they add an irresistible wintry aroma and flavor. And, of course, the Homemade Marshmallows make it very special indeed.

  * * *

  8 ounces high-quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

  3 cups milk

  Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler

  Two 3-inch cinnamon sticks

  8 to 12 Homemade Marshmallows (Chapter 6)

  * * *

  1. Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and let stand for 3 minutes. Whisk until smooth.

  2. Bring the milk, orange zest, and cinnamon to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the orange zest and cinnamon. Add the melted chocolate and whisk well. Reheat, whisking constantly, until piping hot.

  3. Ladle into 4 large mugs and top each with 2 or 3 marshmallows. Serve immediately.

  SOUPS AND SALADS

  Rutabaga and Pear Soup

  Escarole and Farro Soup

  Jerusalem Artichoke and Mushroom Soup

  Chicken, Potato, and Leek Soup

  “Stuffed Cabbage” Soup

  Moroccan Lamb and Garbanzo Bean Soup

  Mussel and Fennel Bisque

  Lime and Cilantro Slaw

  Roasted Beet and Orange Salad

  Poached Leeks with Creamy Vinaigrette

  Rutabaga and Pear Soup

  Makes 6 to 8 servings

  This may sound like an odd combination, but it has become one of my favorite soups for entertaining. Expect a wonderful blend of earthy, sweet flavors from the interplay of rutabaga and pears. And with its deep golden color, this soup visually brightens up a cold winter night.

  * * *

  3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

  2/3 cup chopped shallots

  2½ pounds rutabaga (otherwise known as waxed yellow turnip), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

  6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth

  3 ripe Comice pears, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch dice

  1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  * * *

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the rutabaga and stir well. Add the stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer until the rutabaga is tender, about 45 minutes.

  2. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the pears and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer about one-third of the pears to a bowl to use as garnish.

  3. Add the thyme and the remaining pears to the soup, and simmer for 5 minutes. In batches, puree the soup in a blender. Return to the pot and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, in individual bowls, each garnished with a spoonful of the reserved pears.

  * * *

  Turnips and Rutabagas

  Most cooks consider root vegetables to be humble ingredients, and turnips and rutabagas have been relegated to the lowest rung. Unimpressive in appearance, their pungent flavor more than makes up for their bland looks. The cabbagelike aroma is a defense mechanism in the plants, but it doesn’t discourage intrepid cooks.

  I look forward to using these two vegetables to add spark to my winter cooking. They are most popular when combined with other ingredients to balance their more sulfurous aromas. I often cook them with apples and pears to bring a touch of sweetness, or with starchy potatoes to give them extra body.

  Turnips aren’t only appreciated for the bulbous roots, but also for their peppery green tops. The tops are usually trimmed and sold separately. New greens will continue to sprout from the turnips. Turnips with tiny sprouting greens will be older, and their sharpness will be well developed.

  Also called Swedes or yellow or waxed turnips, rutabagas are actually a cross between regular turnips and a wild cabbage. They can grow to an admirable girth, and their skins are often shellacked with thick wax to give them a longer shelf life. Rutabagas are very popular in New England, and many a holiday meal isn’t considered complete without mashed “turnips.” However, when I have tried to make my favorite rutabaga dishes on the West Coast with small, unwaxed rutabagas, I have found them impossible to cook to tenderness, even after boiling for hours. This could be because rutabagas become pithy and hard when grown during warm weather. So hold out for “authentic” big old rutabagas grown in cold climes.

  * * *

  Escarole and Farro Soup

  Makes 6 to 8 servings

  This satisfying soup is similar to minestrone and other rustic Italian soups. Often I’ll start the soup by sautéing a few ounces of chopped pancetta or prosciutto in the oil before adding the vegetables, but it really isn’t necessary. Think ahead with the farro, which is similar to wheat berries, and soak it overnight before cooking to reduce the cooking time.

  * * *

  ¾ cup farro (see Note)

  2 tablespoons olive oil

  1 medium yellow onion, chopped

  2 medium carrots, chopped

  2 celery ribs, chopped

  2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

  6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use low-sodium canned broth

  One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes, with juice

  One 12-ounce head escarole, well rinsed, hard stems removed, and coarsely chopped

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Chopped fresh parsley, for serving

  Freshly grated Parmesan, for serving

  * * *

  1. The night before making the soup, put the farro in a bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Let stand in a cool place or refrigerate for at least 12 hours.

  2. Drain the farro in a wire sieve. Bring a medium saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the farro and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the farro is tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the farro and set aside.

  3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the stock and the tomatoes with their juice. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 45 minutes.

  4. Add the cooked farro and escarole. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the escarole is very tender, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

  5. Serve hot, sprinkling each serving with parsley, and with the cheese on the side.